![\"Comfort](\"https:\/\/i.guim.co.uk\/img\/media\/0ac8684de4b3d0b5137ff2bf297920da5a365b78\/0_490_5688_3715\/master\/5688.jpg?width=465&quality=85&dpr=1&s=none\")
<\/p>\nWe all need a reason to be cheerful right now, and my coping strategy, along with warm knitwear and cheese on toast, involves a nice glass of the right red.<\/p>\n
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There\u2019s generally not much to be cheerful about at this time of year, and in 2022 there are even fewer things than most. It\u2019s hard to think of a more depressing combination of circumstances, politically, economically and health-wise, on top of which it\u2019s suddenly getting dark at 5pm. My coping strategy is small treats: enveloping jumpers, deep rugs, copious candles, cheese on toast and a nice glass of red. In other words hygge<\/em>\u00a0wine.<\/span><\/p>\n For those trying to moderate their drinking, it\u2019s about quality, not quantity. By that I don\u2019t mean expensive wines, but the sort that are going to take you into your comfort zone (hygge, for those of you who are unfamiliar with the word, is the Danish term for cosy). In other words, the kind of wines you want to drink after an evening out in the cold, whether that\u2019s watching fireworks or stuck on a platform waiting for a delayed train.<\/p>\n Such wines are mainly full-bodied and higher in alcohol. You know, the usual suspects, though malbec seems to be leading the pack these days. Grenache, shiraz and blends of the two with mourv\u00e8dre (GSM), cinsault or carignan that you find in the southern Rh\u00f4ne, Languedoc and the likes of Australia and South Africa, which have successfully adopted the GSM style. Even basic C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne is a hygge wine in my book, and the Co-op currently has a decent own-label one for just \u00a36<\/a>\u00a0that totally hits the spot, though make sure it\u2019s the 2021 vintage. Hygge wine is all about familiarity, rather than the more esoteric fringes of the wine world, though, that said, I was so smitten by the Armenian red in today\u2019s pick that I had to include it, not least because it packs an impressive concentration into its modest 13% ABV. I do envy those of you who live near a Booths.<\/p>\n Some full-bodied reds such as cabernet, meanwhile, really need food to set them off. I find tannin a bit intrusive outside the context of a meal, so look for indications on the back label that the wine has been aged in stainless steel or, more fashionably, concrete (going back to the days when many winemakers didn\u2019t have access to expensive barrels).<\/p>\n Obviously it\u2019s a question of taste, but I think young wines are more quaffable\/hyggable than old ones you might have stashed away and that are more of what the Italians call a\u00a0vino di meditazione<\/em>\u00a0(contemplative wine).<\/p>\n Oh, and to finish, a thought that might cheer you up: it\u2019s almost seven weeks until the shortest day, then the evenings start getting lighter. Not that I expect to be out of the hygge wine zone until March.<\/p>\n Agramont Garnacha 2019<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a35.99 Lidl<\/a>, 14%. Ripe, generous, modern Spanish red that could even handle a curry.<\/p>\n Finca Lalande Organic Malbec 2021<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a36.99 (on offer) Waitrose<\/a>, 14%. Grab this big, jammy malbec while it\u2019s on offer (it\u2019s normally \u00a310.49).<\/p>\n Taste the Difference Discovery Collection\u00a0<\/strong>Ch\u00e2teau<\/strong>\u00a0Auzines Corbi\u00e8res 2018<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a310 Sainsbury\u2019s, 14.5%. A gorgeous, spicy, syrah-dominated red from the excellent Laurent Miquel. Way above your average own-label corbi\u00e8res.<\/p>\n Armenia\u00a0Wine<\/a>\u00a0Company Yerevan 782BC Red 2020<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a39.50 Booths, 12.5%. Gorgeous, exotic red that\u2019s richer than you\u2019d guess from its ABV. Think slow-cooked shoulder of lamb.<\/p>\n Rasteau\u00a0<\/strong>Domaine Saint-Gayan \u2018Ilex\u2019 2016<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a315.75 Yapp Brothers<\/a>, 14.5%. Classic, hefty, spicy southern Rh\u00f4ne \u2013 made for winter stews and casseroles.<\/p>\nFive wines for dark nights<\/h2>\n