Howell: This Malbec is stunning, affordable

Another “Malbec World Day” has come and gone. I hope you were able to celebrate this amazing red wine Sunday, April 17. I sure did. Thank goodness for that tooth-whitening gel on Monday morning.

Yes, Malbec is a dark, luscious red wine that can leave you with a shadowed smile, but your smile will be a big one. There are just so many amazing wines to try out there. So many in fact that it was nearly impossible for me to pick a favorite to write about this week. So I enlisted the help of some of the best taste buds in town to participate in a blind tasting of Malbec wines under $15. And here are the results.

Top choices included Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec 2015 ($10), Don Miguel Gascon Malbec ($12), Renacer Punta Final Malbec 2014 ($12) and Finca El Origen Malbec 2013 ($12).

But one wine in particular inched out the rest. We were on a search for the wine that best exemplified the characteristics of a true Malbec. There are lots of different styles out there, from the more refined and elegant, to the big fruit bombs. But good Malbec is never over-oaked. It allows the rich fruit of the grape to shine through, and that fruit comes in both red and black varieties. Think cherry, strawberry and raspberry, with blueberry, black raspberry and dark plum. Throw in some hints of smoke, spice and chocolate, and you’ve got yourself a winner.

Wine: Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2013. The winery is Trapiche (pronounced Tra-PEECH-chay), and it was founded in 1883 in Mendoza, Argentina. These guys are Malbec pros, and you will find a wide variety of their labels in the shelves. The very affordable Trapiche Vineyard series, to the more complex Trapiche Oak-Cask Series, to the most excellent Trapiche Broquel Series, to the terroir-driven Trapiche Single Vineyard Series and then into the Trapiche Iscay Series and beyond. They know their stuff.

“Broquel” means shield, and is a symbol of the family’s heritage. The grapes for this wine were harvested in March 2013 (the Southern Hemisphere is six months ahead of us), and the wine spent 15 months in oak barrels.

Grapes: 100 percent Malbec. Quick review. Malbec originated in France, but was brought to South America in the 19th century, and took immediately to the climatic conditions of the high altitude Andes Mountains. Today, Malbec is Argentina’s flagship wine.

Region: Mendoza, Argentina, also known as Malbec-Central.

Taste: The Broquel is as classic as a Malbec can be. Dark purple color in the glass with aromas of black raspberry, currant, plum and blueberry. On the palate, the fruit is plush and mouth-filling, with hints of smoke, leather and mocha joining the party. The oak definitely plays second fiddle here, giving the wine a solid structure but letting the ripe fruit flavors shine through. The tannins are amazingly smooth and easy. This wine is ready to drink, but could easily age a few more years in the cellar.

Food pairings: Malbec is known for its affinity to Argentina’s favorite food — beef! Steak on the grill, barbecue ribs and fried empanadas work great. Spicy and herbal sauces such as chimichurri, salsa verde and pesto are also fine matches. I personally found it to pair quite well with a simple cheese plate while sitting on my deck on the first real warm day of spring. Here’s to many more.

Price: At $14 a bottle, this may be one of the wine world’s best values, and a must for grilling season. The 2013 vintage was just released, so you may find a few 2012s still out there, which would be your luck, because that vintage is also stunning.

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