Last of the Summer Wines – or Not?
Brian Elliot in Reviews.
Traditionally, last weekend’s “Glorious Twelfth” stirs those fuller reds out of hibernation to put in a shift accompanying the harvest from the game shooting season.
Need that be the end of those “lighter summer reds” though?
There are good reasons why lighter reds can be sound year-round choices.
Lower alcohol levels can often make lighter wines good choices for social gatherings and for health reasons.
Equally, it is serious deprivation to deny ourselves access to a range of tasty grape varieties – like young barbera – for up to nine months.
Anyway, wines like a red Loire are just as suitable for sunny September and October days are they are for many days in June or July.
And, possibly more importantly, light reds are often particularly versatile as food wines – being less likely to overpower the more delicate of our favourite dishes.
On that note, food matchers should never be afraid of serving selected red wines with the first course followed by an appropriate white with the main course.
Wine has more connection with the food partnering it than with the wine from the preceding course.
So, here is a selection of “summer” reds that – for me – merit a longer season.
2021 Domaine Bousquet Reserve Pinot Noir (£14.50 at Vintage Roots and 13.5%):
Tupungato in Argentina’s up and coming Uco Valley region has some of that country’s highest vineyards and is acquiring a reputation for chardonnay.
Here, though, an acclaimed organic operation brings us not white wine but pinot noir – however, as you might expect, it is in a far from standard format.
Surprisingly dark but with the clarity organic wines so often present, it exhibits fragrant raspberry and plum flavours embellished by lively acidity and well measured tannin.
Lovers of pinot noir with a savoury foundation will relish this wine and the nutty, cola and clove elements it also contains.
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