ARGENTINA

Mendoza:

Red:

Domaine Bousquet, Tupungato (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “Natural Origins” NV ($20, WISD LLC):  Here’s a wine that is not only a pleasure to drink, but a pleasure that keeps on giving thanks to packaging (a 3-liter box) that keeps things fresh for a month.  If you break it down, the $20 price works out to five dollars per bottle, delivered in a four-bottle-sized box that draws down an internal bladder in such a way that the wine doesn’t get oxygen exposure all the way to the end.  Of course, all that is immaterial if the product inside isn’t worthy.  This one is, with expected Malbec character complemented by white pepper and meaty notes, and a savory, balanced finish.  It’s camping trip ready – or in these times, Lazy-Boy side table ready.
88 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2020

CHILE

Rosé:

Casas Del Bosque, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir Rosé 2019 ($13):  I’ve been tasting a lot of Rosés recently, and I have to admit many of them seem less than optimal — they tended to be too sweet or just plain insipid.  Prices have been all over the map, from $9 to $35, with little connection between price and quality.  This Rosé from Chile, however, was not only affordable but was also downright delicious.  A pretty pale salmon-pink in color, with engaging aromatics, this wine has enough structure, enough delicate strawberry dominated fruit, and enough acidity on the finish to be refreshing on its own and/or as good companion to food.  I’ve enjoyed Casas del Bosque recently with a range of different foods, from BLT sandwich to shrimp tacos.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jul 28, 2020

FRANCE

Beaujolais:

Red:

Jean-Ernest Descombes (Georges Duboeuf Domaines), Morgon AOC (Beaujolais, France) 2018 ($24, Quintessential Wines):  One of the most reliable and complex of all the cru Beaujolais, this example from Jean-Ernest Descombes runs true to form.  A note of violets on the nose pulls you into the glass seductively, where it delivers sweet red fruits, a juicy texture and soft, supple tannins that make for easy summer sipping.
90 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

GREECE

White:

Gai’a Estate, Santorini (Cyclades, Greece) Assyrtiko “Thalassitis” 2018 ($35, Craft + Estate / Winebow):  Gai’a (pronounced Yay-ya) Estate’s 2018 Assyrtiko Santorini “Thalassitis” has sea salt and lemon zest aromas that immediately transport you to the beaches of Santorini.  The wine is seriously thirst-quenching, with the perfect amount of juiciness and crisp acidity that are needed to foil these hot summer days.  It has the distinct minerality you’d expect from a volcanic island with a briny edge.  The delicate lemon, lime, and honeysuckle flavors give it a bright and lingering finish.
94 Miranda Franco Jul 28, 2020

ITALY

Piedmont:

Red:

Marchesi Incisa Della Rocchetta, Barbera d’Asti DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Valmorena” 2018 ($18, Serendipity Wines LLC):  Barbera d’Asti is one of my go-to wines because of its versatility and affordability.  It’s medium / light bodied with juicy cherry, raspberry, blackberry fruit laced with a touch of anise and vanilla.  The scrumptious fruit is balanced with the grape’s trademark snappy acidity and smooth, ripe tannins.  It Is comfortable with many flavors at the table, pairing very well with a burger, fried chicken, barbeque pork, pizza, or a grilled tuna steak.  A quick chill it for 15 to 20 minutes before serving enhances its refreshment factor.  By way of background, the Incisa family has been in the Monferrato area of Piedmont since the 11th century.  In the nineteenth century, the Marchese Leopoldo Incisa made significant contributions to research and knowledge in the fields of enology and grape varieties.  In the 1930s Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, moved from Piemonte to Bolgheri in Tuscany and created the legendary ‘Super Tuscan” wine, Sassicaia.  In the 1990s the Marchesa Barbara Incisa della Rocchetta moved the wine operations from the family estate to La Corte Chiusa.  Today her son and daughter, Filiberto and Francesca, run the winery operations.
94 Rebecca Murphy Jul 28, 2020

Tenuta Garetto, Grignolino d’Asti DOC (Piedmont, Italy) 2018 ($19, Enotec Imports):  If you love super-ripe, whopping wines like Aussie Shiraz or Argentine Malbec, you should just keep walking past this wine.  However, if you love light, fresh wines like Pinot Noir but need a change of pace, take a walk on the wild side…straight to this Grignolino.  It is no deeper in color than a simple Bourgogne Rouge that never saw the inside of a barrel, yet appearances can be deceiving, as this has significant acidity and tannin, but also plenty of flavor to counterbalance those structural elements.  That balance isn’t evident immediately, as the wine seems just a bit awkward and tart when first opened, but with aeration, it achieves an inner harmony that becomes ever more impressive over the course of an entire evening.  The fruit recalls pie cherries and red raspberries, and would be a perfect partner on a warm summer night for staple foods such as salmon or roast chicken.
91 Michael Franz Jul 28, 2020

Tenuta Garetto, Nizza DOCG (Piedmont, Italy) “Favà” 2016 ($40, Enotec Imports):  Nizza is a Barbera-only appellation that was established as a free-standing DOCG in 2014, when it was granted its own identity after being subsumed formerly within Barbera d’Asti.  This wine makes a remarkably convincing case for the granting of DOCG status, which frankly is a process in Italy that sometimes seems driven more by politics than sheer vinous merit.  This release is impressively dark and concentrated, with full ripeness and prodigious palate impact, yet also the refreshing tang of energetic acidity that can make Barbera uniquely fun to drink—and exceptionally versatile with food.  It is worth emphasizing that a worldwide trend toward fuller ripeness and bigger wines began afflicting Barbera in Piedmont during the 1990s, resulting in far too many renditions were made by wrestling against the variety’s high-acid nature, “domesticating” it into something conforming more closely to international fashion.  Recently and thankfully, here’s been some backlash against that trend, and today you can find fresh, zesty Barberas or big, ripe ones.  However, finding big, powerful renditions that are also tangy and exciting is still a challenge, but here’s a wine from a great vintage in Piedmont that hits the bulls eye.  If my score is off, it is definitely off on the low side.
93 Michael Franz Jul 28, 2020

Montalbera, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato (Piedmont, Italy) “Laccento” 2018 ($27, Lyra Fine Wine Imports):  Throughout the Piedmont, or all of Italy for that matter, one can discover grape varieties that yield wines of great distinction, even though they are hardly recognized at all outside their local area.  The Monferrato Hills are a wide-ranging area to the northeast of Barolo and Barbaresco.  The area produces diverse wines from Barbera, Moscato, Grignolino, Dolcetto, Freisa and other grapes.  One of those others is the Ruché, which is planted around Castagnole Monferrato.  Montalbera is a top producer here, and the “Laccento” bottling is one of their best.  Ruché at its best yields a pale-colored wine with surprising depth and complexity.  Comparisons can be drawn to Nebbiolo, Nerello and other Italian varieties, but Ruché has its own style.  The 2018 Montalbera Laccento Ruché has a lovely bouquet of raspberries, cranberries, dried roses, tea leaves, leather and spices.  Its pale color belies its rich and multilayered flavors.  Dried cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruits are enhanced by subtleties of potpourri, autumn leaves, herbs and spices.  The remarkable combination of delicately layered flavors with a creamy texture is evidence of the potential of the Ruché grape.  This is top-class red that can compare with similarly-priced wines from any region or grape.
94 Wayne Belding Jul 28, 2020

Tuscany:

Red:

Capezzana, Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC (Tuscany, Italy) 2015 ($17):  This succulent wine is made from a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Canaiolo grapes.  I have been a fan of Capezzzana wines in general for a very long time without ever being disappointed, and this Barco Reale de Carmignano continues to inspire my enthusiastic appreciation of the estate.   With its wild aromatic blast of dusty berries, cherries, fresh earth and a touch of smoke this bold red wine could not be a more perfect choice to pair with a good steak (trust me, I am speaking from very recent experience).
93 Marguerite Thomas Jul 28, 2020

Querciabella, Chianti Classico DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) 2016 ($30, Maisons, Marques and Domaines):  This is a great example of the sanguine, savory character that Sangiovese can achieve when handled by a great producer and derived from a great vintage.  Cherry, cocoa powder, cedar, sage, meat and tea aromas and flavors present themselves in fully integrated fashion and finish together in this food friendly package.   It will run the table from start to finish.
93 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2020

Colle Santa Mustiola di Fabio Cenni, Toscana IGT (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese Poggio ai Chiari 2011 ($80, Selezioni Varietali):  This is my first encounter with this producer, but it certainly will not be my last given the quality of this wine.  Their importer tells me Cenni’s focus is Sangiovese, with their 12 acres planted entirely with 28 clones of that variety.  Poggio ai Chiari, their flagship wine, is impressive from the first fragrant whiff.  Stylish and refined, it transmits a lovely austerity without being hard. Paradoxically, it is both delicate and powerful, but not heavy.  Hints of cherries come through and mingle with mineral-like flavors.  Uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and lively and balances its chiseled profile.  An engaging hint of bitterness in the finish increases its appeal.  Cenni clearly knows something about Sangiovese.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2020

Boscarelli, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy) Il Nocio 2016 ($159, Empson USA):

96 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2020

SOUTH AFRICA

Red:

Glenelly, Stellenbosch (South Africa) “Lady May” 2012 ($55, Cape Classics):  I had the pleasure of visiting this estate in the vintage that this wine comes from, and the aromas and flavors bring a fond memory to mind.  The winery flagship, it carries old world Bordeaux character with signature South African minerality, and this late release brings us a wine that is just before peak, and will enjoy a few good years there before starting an elegant fade.  At this price, it’s a real treat.  While you wait for travel restrictions to be lifted, take a little trip south.  Contains 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc.
94 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2020

White:

MAN Family Wines, Coastal Region (Western Cape, South Africa) Chenin Blanc Free-Run Steen 2019 ($9, Vineyard Brands):  South Africa has more Chenin Blanc acreage than any other country.  The MAN Chenin Blanc affirms that South Africa can be a source of affordable and delicious Chenin.  Drawn from dry-farmed bush vines in the Agter-Paarl area, the 2019 bottling continues a string of successes for this wine.  This vintage is refreshing and forward, with scents of fresh flowers, pear, green apple, lemon and tropical fruits.  The flavors are pure, juicy and lively, with lemon, pear and green apple fruits underlain by delectable floral and spice tones.  This is a wonderful reflection of South Africa’s vinous treasure — the Chenin Blanc.  The MAN Chenin Blanc ranks among the best white wine values in the world.  It’s a perfect summer sipper.
90 Wayne Belding Jul 28, 2020

SPAIN

Catalonia:

Sparkling:

Anna de Codorniu, Cava DO (Catalonia, Spain) Brut Rosé NV ($13):  In the galaxy of impressive sparkling wines, this beauty from Codorniu stands out not only for value but also for its utterly pure fruit aromas and its compelling deliciousness.  Fresh ripe strawberry and cherry flavors, an attractive mousse and the soft, seductive mouthfeel will be hard to beat at this price.
90 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

Ribera del Duero:

Red:

Arrocal, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) Tempranillo “Selección” 2017 ($40, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Arrocal is among my favorite bodegas in Ribera del Duero, which is in turn among my favorite regions in the world — and arguably Spain’s best source for pure but powerful Tempranillo.  The great thing about the bodega is that the proprietors manage to make a line of five reds (plus a lovely Rosé) that are all quite differentiated in style and character, despite the fact that all are made from the same grape and from vineyards that are located near one another.  One might wonder how this can be accomplished, and the answer seems to be very careful growing, picking, winemaking and aging, as the different bottlings are all remarkably consistent in style across vintages, despite their distinctness from one another.  This Reserva is — as usual — a deeply satisfying wine of richness and power, but with no rough edges despite having been aged in 50% new oak.  Very deep color provides an accurate tip-off of what’s to come, and the bouquet is marked more by beautifully ripened fruit than wood, though notes of spice and light toast are very appealing.  The fruit profile is certainly ripe and the “feel” is rich, yet there’s also real freshness here, thanks to Ribera del Duero’s forgivingly cool nights.  These wines age slowly and beautifully (try the 2014 “Selección” if you can find it, which I purchased recently and is absolutely gorgeous and still improving), though they are also delicious immediately upon release.  What more could you ask for?
93 Michael Franz Jul 28, 2020

Arrocal, Ribera del Duero DO (Castilla y León, Spain) “Àngel de Arrocal” 2017 ($55, Grapes of Spain / Aurelio Cabestrero):  Sourced from the Finca de Clara vineyard planted 84 years ago, this wine provides an object lesson in what venerable Tempranillo vines from Ribera del Duero can achieve when they are deftly tended and their fruit is skillfully crafted.  That fruit was treated to 100% new French oak, so it was certainly lavished with expensive treatment.  However, what really merits mention in terms of wood is how little it shows at this early point in the wine’s aging trajectory, rather than how prominent it seems.  I don’t know the toast level of the barrels, but the sensory signature is more spicy and toasty than smoky, and regardless of the toast level, it is a testament to the quality of the fruit that it has already soaked up so much more of the wood than one would expect to sense from a glass, based on the percentage of new barrels.  That fruit is ripe and rich, but “purity” is the first descriptor that comes to mind, and that too is remarkable in view of all that new oak.  Black cherry is the main fruit note, but blackberry is also suggested with a thin line of red fruit showing as well.  This is already delicious, but I have no doubt that it will develop in positive directions for many more years…as in, 20 or so.  As an aside, the 2011 (which was a relatively hot year like 2015) is just gorgeous and still obviously on the upswing, which I note as a point of comparison but also a recommendation in case you can find a bottle to buy.  Considering the excellent quality of this wine, the expense involved in its production process and the age of the vines involved, this is a great value at its price.
93 Michael Franz Jul 28, 2020

Rioja:

Rosé:

R. Lopez de Heredia, Rioja DOC Gran Reserva (Spain) “Viña Tondonia” Rosé 2009 ($125, Think Global Wines):  This is not your typical rosé.  For starters, it is over ten years old, which is worth emphasizing and spends four years in an oak barrel.  Notably, it is not released every year.  This unique wine made me fall in love (and become slightly obsessed) with the wines of Lopez de Heredia.  I had the pleasure of trying this wine in a different vintage a few years ago, and continue to seek it out in any vintage I can find. Admittedly, it’s not always easy to get your hands on, but it’s entirely worth the effort.  It is distinctive with the strong character of an aged wine, offering flavors of orange peel, tarragon, dried cherry, and almond.  It’s unusually complex for any wine, let alone a rosé, compelling you to pour another glass.  Blended from Garnacha 60%, Tempranillo 30% and Viura 10%, it still holds a good amount of acidity, showing some promise to age for a few more years — if you can hold on to it for that long.
96 Miranda Franco Jul 28, 2020

UNITED STATES

California:

Red:

Flora Springs, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Family Estate 2017 ($38):  Napa Valley Merlot from a top-notch producer continues to be one of the greatest values in a land where value is in short supply.  This beauty from Flora Springs shows impressive depth, with layers of blueberry, cherry and blackberry fruit, a hint of graphite and just the right touch of oak spice.  Drink now or cellar.
93 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

Tongue Dancer, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Pratt and Putnam Vineyards 2018 ($49):  Winemaker/proprietor James MacPhail strikes again, this time with an impressive Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast’s Pratt and Putnam vineyards.  Richly textured and complex, this vintage shows bright raspberry and cherry notes with a subtle touch of wood spice and firm but nicely integrated tannins.
92 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

J. Lohr, St. Helena, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Carol’s Vineyard 2016 ($60):  Carol’s Vineyard is Jerry Lohr’s one wine adventure outside of Paso Robles, and one that’s always worth a look.  Mr. Lohr knows something about site selection, and St. Helena’s rise to prominence is driven by wines like this one, where blackberry and cherry fruit shine through gentle winemaking.  This vintage is quite ripe, but it’s well balanced by judicious oak selection that adds a spiced toastiness and helps the finish linger.  It’s waiting for a well marbled steak to make a perfect pairing.
93 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2020

Rosé:

Steele, Lake County (California) Cabernet Franc Rosé 2019 ($18):  Steele satisfies your thirst with another fine vintage of this offering, one that delivers Cabernet Franc character in a pink package of watermelon, guava and strawberry, with a little basil note on the nose and in the mouth that adds depth and provides a varietal signature.  Hurry on this small production delight – it will go fast!
90 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2020

Tongue Dancer, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Rosé of Pinot Noir 2019 ($22):  Winemaker/proprietor James MacPhail is meticulous to the point that he inoculated this wine with yeast from the Bandol region of France, legendary for its crisp and delicious Rosé wines.  To that bit of inside information add the fact that it is made using the saigne technique (bleeding off the juice from wine otherwise meant to be made as table wine) with grapes from some of the most coveted Pinot Noir vineyards in California.  You get the idea.  Magic in a bottle, courtesy of one of California’s most respected winemakers.
94 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

Anaba Wines, Sonoma County (California) Grenache Rosé 2019 ($30):  Pale onion skin in color, this dry Rosé from Sonoma County is a surprise on the palate, showing impressive complexity and crisp acidity that refreshes and whets the appetite for another sip.  Notes of citrus, stone fruits and tart apple linger on the finish.
92 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

White:

Chateau Souverain, California (United States) Chardonnay 2017 ($14):  This iconic California producer has been turning out fine and approachable wines since 1944, and the quality never disappoints as this tasty, lightly toasty Chardonnay demonstrates.  Lightly creamy on the palate, it offers rich flavors further enhanced by a hint of vanilla and a generous, clean finish.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jul 28, 2020

Flora Springs, Napa Valley (California) “Soliloquy” 2019 ($50):  The evolution of Soliloquy is now complete.  What was for many years one of the Napa Valley’s finest Sauvignon Blancs is now one of the valley’s finest white wine blends.  Oh, it still says Sauvignon Blanc (delicious white peach) on the palate, but the now eclectic blend also includes Chardonnay and the aromatic Italian white grape Malvasia.  The result is a white with layered complexity, notes of floral and apple, and a judicious splash of wood spice.  And the balance is brilliant.
96 Robert Whitley Jul 28, 2020

Fess Parker Winery, Santa Barbara County (California) Chardonnay 2018 ($19):  Here’s a simple score sheet for Fess Parker Chardonnay: Aromatic appeal?  Check.  Inviting flavors highlighted by apple, lemon zest, citrus, vanilla and light oak spice?  Check.  Reasonably priced for a quality wine such as this?  Check.  Grab some of this attractive white wine and see for yourself.
90 Marguerite Thomas Jul 28, 2020

Ernest Vineyards, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Cleary Ranch Vineyard “The Farmer” 2016 ($46):  The portrait on the label is of Ernest Gottula, grandfather of founder of Todd Gottula who with his wife, Erin Brooks, in 2012.  They work with 12 different growers, mainly in cool-climate areas who farm a total of 26 acres of vines.  They have a great appreciation of Burgundian-style wines and aim to make wines high in acid, low in alcohol and moderate use of oak.  They nailed it with this wine. Tasting it blind I thought it might be from Burgundy, due to its subtle green apple, citrus, fruit, a touch of vanilla and chalky mineral notes.  Lean, tight and crisp in the mouth, its flavors linger on the tongue and the in the memory.  It is a seriously structured and enjoyable wine that will be a charming collaborator with baked halibut or pan-seared scallops.  The Cleary Ranch Vineyard is a six-acre site in the in the west Sonoma Coast area, and is the coolest of the vineyards that Gottula and Brooks lease and farm.
97 Rebecca Murphy Jul 28, 2020

Oregon:

Rosé:

Argyle, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir Rosé 2019 ($20):  A good Rosé carries more than just refreshment – it carries complexity and depth of flavor as well, and this fine bottling does just that.  With Champagne-like acidity, the Pinot Noir shines with strawberry and cherry fruit joined by notes of lemon and spice, all finishing together with a freshening pop.  One of several great Pinot Noir Rosés from this vintage.  It’s making me wonder why I’ve never had one from Burgundy.
92 Rich Cook Jul 28, 2020

Washington:

Red:

Rasa Vineyards, Columbia Valley (Washington) Petit Verdot Dionysus Vineyard “Living in the Limelight” 2016 ($60):  Rasa Vineyards has an outstanding selection of terroir-driven wines.  The “Living in the Limelight” Petit Verdot may not be one of their flagship wines, but it should not be ignored.  “Living in the Limelight” is an ode to the often-overlooked Petite Verdot grape.  This wine demonstrates that Petit Verdot is not merely a minor blending grape.  This blend of 95% Petit Verdot, 2.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2.5% Cabernet Franc gushes with blackcurrant, black plum, and blackberry with a dash of black pepper and clove.  Smooth, and complete.  Enjoy it now or in years to come.
93 Miranda Franco Jul 28, 2020